Gone are the days when bespoke tailoring was the sole option for achieving a perfect fit in clothing. While custom-tailored garments have long been associated with high costs, recent innovations in active fibers and advanced knitting techniques are revolutionizing the textile industry.
“Clothing is a fundamental human need,” shares Sasha MicKinlay MArch ’23, a recent graduate of MIT’s Department of Architecture. “However, it’s equally vital to express oneself through fashion. My vision is to create customizable clothing that is also sustainable. This dress is a step forward in sustainability for both consumers and producers.”
McKinlay, a textile designer at the Self-Assembly Lab, collaborated with Ministry of Supply—an innovative fashion company—to develop the 4D Knit Dress. This groundbreaking garment features integrated technologies that enhance fit and style. By employing heat-activated yarns, computerized knitting, and robotic adjustments, the 4D Knit Dress achieves a sculpted design tailored to individual bodies. A dedicated team from Ministry of Supply contributed to selecting stable yarns, colors, sizes, and the overall aesthetic.
“Every individual has a unique body shape,” emphasizes Skylar Tibbits, associate professor and founder of the Self-Assembly Lab. “Even if two people wear the same size, their bodies are not identical.”
Active Textiles and Custom Fit
For several years, students at the Self-Assembly Lab have been pioneering research in dynamic textiles capable of altering their shape, insulating properties, and breathability. Past projects have focused on adapting garments, including sweaters and face masks. The 4D Knit Dress represents the culmination of their findings in active textiles.
In this project, McKinlay was integral in developing active yarns, conceptualizing the design, and programming an industrial knitting machine. Once the garment’s specifications are programmed, multiple dresses can be produced quickly. The strategic placement of active yarns allows the dress to feature various styles, such as pintucks, pleats, or a cinched waist.
“Styling is crucial,” McKinlay asserts. “While many focus on size, styling is what truly differentiates clothing. As we evolve as individuals, so too should our style. After achieving the perfect fit, personal expression becomes paramount.”
Interestingly, Danny Griffin MArch ’22, a graduate student specializing in architectural design, brought his robotics expertise to the team despite a lack of experience in fashion. Tibbits recognized his skills and invited him to assist in translating heat activation processes into a programmable robotic system.
“When heat is applied, the fibers contract, causing the textile to gather in specific areas, effectively tailoring the garment,” explains Griffin. “It took considerable trial and error to determine the optimal robot positioning and heat application methods. Precision is key, particularly with both temperature and timing.”
One of the challenges was ensuring the robot could access all areas of the garment effectively.
“We couldn’t use a standard heat gun since they’re too bulky,” Griffin notes. “Instead, we designed a more compact solution. Once we figured out the details, programming the robot was an exhilarating process.”
The beauty of this dress is that it can start with one design—like pintucks across the chest—and, after several months of wear, heat can be reapplied to update its appearance. This means that even further adjustments can be made over time.
Innovation Beyond Fashion
Addressing the challenges of producing garments efficiently is a significant concern in the fashion industry, according to Gihan Amarasiriwardena ’11, co-founder and president of Ministry of Supply.
“Fashion often involves guessing trends for upcoming seasons,” he explains. “Styles may not perform well, leading to excessive markdowns or disposal in landfills.”
The term “fast fashion” describes inexpensive, trendy clothing designed for quick production and disposal. Conversely, the 4D Knit Dress stands against this trend, being produced in a single piece, reducing waste dramatically compared to traditional “cut-and-sew” methods.
“This approach minimizes excess inventory because each dress is uniquely customized for the wearer,” Tibbits states.
McKinlay aspires for this innovative technology to significantly decrease the usual seasonal waste retailers face.
“The dress can adapt to evolving styles and preferences,” she notes. “It could also reduce the necessity for retailers to carry a full range of sizes—imagine a single garment that caters to both smaller and larger sizes. This offers sustainability benefits for both consumers and retailers alike.”
The collaboration between the Self-Assembly Lab and Ministry of Supply has yielded remarkable results. Last year, they unveiled the 4D Knit Dress at Ministry of Supply’s flagship store in Boston, featuring a robotic arm that adjusted the dress in real-time as customers observed. For Amarasiriwardena, it was a valuable opportunity to gather feedback from consumers eager to try the dress on.
“With sufficient interest, we can pivot quickly, unlike the traditional slow design and manufacturing cycle,” he adds.
Griffin and McKinlay, present at the demonstration, were thrilled with the positive responses. With the technical challenges addressed, Griffin is excited for the future possibilities of the project.
“This experience has invigorated my desire to explore further,” he reflects.
McKinlay shares this enthusiasm, eager to innovate more styles.
“I hope this research leads people to reevaluate their relationship with clothing,” she says. “Purchasing a piece of clothing shouldn’t mean it has just one look. Imagine owning a garment that evolves with you, adapting to changing seasons and personal styles. That’s the message I hope resonates with everyone.”
Photo credit & article inspired by: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
